CALAMARI FRITTI ALLA VIGILIA DI NATALE

RACCONTO FINALISTA PUBBLICATO NEL TESTO: "SCRITTO E MANGIATO" -  RACCONTI DI VITA  E SAPORI A CURA DI B. CORDES E A. TRIMARCO

EDITO DALLA CASA EDITRICE GIULIO PERRONE - PREZZO DI COPERTINA : 18 EURO

DI: LUCIANA GESUALDO

Ogni volta che il mio olfatto viene solleticato dal profumo di frittura di calamari, mi rivedo il giorno della vigilia di Natale intorno alla tavola imbandita, avvolta dall’affetto dei miei genitori, di mio fratello, mia sorella e di una delle persone più importanti della mia vita: mio nonno Mario, napoletano doc, che con la sua seconda moglie ci ospitava a condividere la santa festività, che di consueto prevedeva una cena a base di pesce. Da buon partenopeo l’ospitalità era di casa, l’ironia la faceva da padrona, le risate da cornice in un’atmosfera casereccia, calda come le pareti di quella abitazione riscaldata dai termosifoni a pieno regime e dai fornelli della cucina impegnati a cuocere le solite pietanze che ogni anno avevano un appuntamento fisso con il nostro palato. Sì, perché per tornare indietro nel tempo non serve solo ripercorrere a ritroso le immagini, le voci  i silenzi che dimorano nella nostra memoria. A volte basta una fotografia, un dejà – vu, una canzone, un sapore o un odore e l’effetto viaggio nel passato è presto garantito. Ebbene, considerato che la tradizione è pretenziosa in quanto “vuole” e non “vorrebbe”, ancora oggi per l’occasione e a distanza di anni i calamari fritti precedono la nascita del bambino Gesù e tutti dorati continuano a colorare i piatti bianchi dei servizi migliori, utilizzati solo per le occasioni speciali. Croccanti per i più piccini e un po’ meno cotti per i più avanti con l’età, vengono serviti sempre caldi, dopo essere stati qualche minuto a riposare in un’ insalatiera piena di carte assorbenti che risucchiano l’olio lasciando al gusto l’essenza del mare. Quand’anche si volesse, sfuggire dal ricordo è pressoché impossibile considerato che, oltre alle narici, ad essere invasi dall’odore del fritto di mare sono abiti e capelli, conditi a volte di lievi spruzzate di farina che nel corso dell’impasto svolazza qui e là depositandosi in ogni dove, persino nelle fessure più impensate del mobilio. Una farina dispettosa, senza la quale però i calamari non avrebbero lo stesso sapore e colore. Una polvere bianca che sposandosi con il pesce nel caloroso abbraccio dell’olio di girasole finisce per abbronzarsi, allietando i volti dei bambini che dinanzi a quelli che chiamano “anellini” non accennano a tanti capricci. I calamari piacciono, sono gustosi come le patatine fritte e se tagliati a cerchietti hanno la sembianza di  fedi nuziali che qualcuno arriva, per gioco, persino ad indossare e gli innamorati addirittura a mangiarne uno in due contemporaneamente, fino a toccarsi le labbra, per poi finire in un interminabile bacio che sa d’estate. Tutto questo un giorno penserà mio figlio quando da piccolo e giovane commensale diventerà sempre più adulto. Ricorderà i sapori, gli odori, l’armonia di momenti trascorsi a dilettarsi sotto la stretta protezione del cibo e degli affetti più cari. Ricorderà quando sedersi a tavola per ore era un lusso e non un fastidio o una pena da scontare; ricorderà quelle cene di Natale, quando tutti i posti a tavola erano occupati; ricorderà quando dopo aver mangiato il pesce gli veniva concesso un gustoso dolce al cioccolato quale premio per aver tentato di rispettare le regole di una corretta alimentazione; ricorderà che quando sarà solo o in altra compagnia il piatto della memoria non lo abbandonerà mai, sarà il suo bonsai da custodire gelosamente in quanto valore storico. E’  dalle radici che cresce un buon arbusto.

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